“Long live the Dalai Lama !”
were the enthusiastic screams of the young Tibetans standing around us as the car of the Dalai Lama passed in front of us and His Holiness blessed us with his familiar wide smile and a sign of his hand.
Today was indeed a very special day here in Dharamsala, the Dalai Lama was returning after his long and very important journey abroad during which he was awarded the US Congressional Gold Medal. For the last three days, the excitement was growing and everybody was preparing for his return.
Thousands of coloured Buddhist flags and Tibetan flags were flying everywhere. Artists even painted harmonious multicolored auspicious symbols on the road that leads to the Dalai Lama’s residence.
I would never have imagined that so many people lived in this small town! Thousands of Tibetans, from the very young to the aged, shopkeepers, civil servants, school children, all the nuns and all the monks were in the street, holding a traditional kata and burning sticks of incense to welcome their beloved spiritual leader.
We could feel the atmosphere full of intense joy and happiness and many of us would have very misty eyes!
Once more, I feel so fortunate to being here and receiving the blessings of such an incredible human being. Just a glance from him was enough to touch the depths of our hearts.

Dharamsala’s Himalayas:
On Sunday, we climbed the hills above Dharamsala to the plateau of Triund from where the view of the first peaks of the Himalayas is just breathtaking. Moreover, towards the valley, one has a panoramic view of the plains as far as the eye can see…
It takes about 4 hours of a brisk walking to get to the plateau, 3000 meters high, where sheep graze peacefully on the scarce green grass. And there, in front of you stands the majestic Dhauladhar range, with its highest peak at 4,460 meters.
We started at dawn to get there before noon as there is always the risk of weather changes and the warm and sunny afternoons can quickly change into unwelcome snowstorms.

A historic day, reviving hope for the Tibetan people:

There was much joy and excitement here in Dharamsala this week as President George Bush presented the Dalai Lama the US Congressional Gold Medal. Several festivities were organised around town that included discourses, traditional dances, music, and sporting events. The presentation itself was shown live on a big screen and viewed by thousands of supporters. Everybody here senses the tremendous symbolic significance of the event. After decades of patiently promoting human rights and working for the preservation of Tibetan culture the Dalai Lama is finally being recognised on the world stage. For Tibetans and supporters here there is an expectation that at long last there may be a change in China’s attitude to the exiled Government that could lead to a new wave of dialogue with the Tibetan spiritual leader. Most certainly a new dimension has been added to the plight of all Tibetan refugees here in Dharamsala.

The Namgyal Cafe: the best “Pizza Popeye” in town!
This little cafe is one of our favorites. It has a great atmosphere especially in the evenings, with mesmerizing sunsets as the setting sun slowly loses its glow as it creeps over the distance hills and enveloping the café with an aura of peace and tranquility.
The café is situated on the basement level of the Tsuglagkhang Complex, the monastery of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, which makes it even more special. The pizzas here are simply excellent, and once you discover your favorite, you don’t want to try anything else! If you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss the chocolate-vanilla-rum macaroons!
Behind the counter, stuck on the wall, an amazing patchwork of banknotes from all over the world proudly displayed by the café manager as evidence of his very cosmopolitan clientèle. And near the door, photographs of the Dalai Lama as well of the Buddha. And on prominent display a photo of the well known celebrity, American actor Richard Gere, posing with the smiling Tibetan café manager. Richard Gere is a familiar and regular visitor to McLeod Ganj and has a very close relationship with His Holiness.
We are very fortunate indeed. McLeod Ganj is a great place for eating, and visitors have their choice of simple but very good restaurants to chose from: Indian, Tibetan, Italian, French, Thai, Japanese and even Korean! It is unlikely that one will be able to find such diversity so closely located anywhere else in India, not even in Delhi.

The Earth’s calm abiding
This week, we were again blessed-to be here attending a week-long teaching given by His Holiness the Dalai Lama on Buddhist philosophy and practice*. Hundreds of Tibetans and foreigners gathered in the upper hall of the main temple to listen to His Holiness…and a very strange thing happened - just when His Holiness was giving advice on how to practice… calm abiding (a part of the practice of meditation)…believe it or not, the earth shook for about 2 seconds !!! It seems that our planet is not keen to practice calm abiding!
We all know that Dharamsala is situated in a region prone to earthquakes. We often wonder when the big one will strike. Yet we all have somehow learned to accept this uncertainty.

*Nagarjuna’s “Commentary on The Awakening Mind” and Kamalashila’s “Middling Stages of Meditation”.

Hello there!
Yes, we are back, in this marvellous, peaceful and exceptionally inspiring place…After nearly 48 hours of an exhausting journey that started in Geneva, Switzerland, we were welcomed by a magnificent sunrise. One of the first thing we can’t wait doing is “the Kora”: the 30 min. walk along the little path around the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, turning the Tibetan prayer wheels, dedicating the merits to all sentient beings…The best way to get into a spiritual mood…!

Dear visitors,
It is already mid-June, which means that the Indian monsoon can start at any moment…and believe me…. everything becomes grey and muddy. In fact, it seems that it started last night...! I don’t want to finish like Pinky, Garfield & Co! As I need to renew my visa I use this as an excuse to escape and go back home, to Switzerland, for the summer. But I will come back in September and will continue to feed these pages, with more amusing and useful titbits.
See you then!
OM MANI PADME HUNG…

Little Lhasa of India:
Upper Dharamsala (in fact named MacLeod Ganj) was founded in 1850 by a British lieutenant who was the governor of Punjab. “MacLoo” as locals call it was completely destroyed in 1905 by an earthquake. It lies right on the tectonic plate…
Not much happened in Macleod Ganj until 1960 when the Indian Government accepted the Dalai Lama and other Tibetans as refugees and allowed them to settle in the area. Nowadays, there are more Tibetans than Indians in the town. The Indian authorities have not spent much money on the maintenance of the infrastructures and as a result many of the facilities including the roads and drains have deteriorated over the years. Lately however there has been some improvement in development aid and changes are being seen.
Nevertheless Macleod Ganj is quaint and picturesque with the two or perhaps you can say three streets laid out like a necklace adorned with guesthouses, hotels, restaurants, vegetable stalls and businesses of the Tibetans, Kashmiris and Indians. And yes all the businesses of tour agents and transport operators. Indeed everything that is required to fill the needs of locals and foreigners alike. And difficult as it may be for outsiders to comprehend, there is remarkable efficiency and competency to be found in the town that truly complements the serenity of the local dwellers. In the general confusion of everyday commerce that is commonplace in India, Macleod Ganj is truly unique and a place of refuge for travellers seeking respite from the heat, noise and pollution.

Two exceptional, beloved, spiritual teachers:
The first time I participated in the daily teaching on Tibetan Buddhist philosophy at the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives was in 1998 and I did not understand much…I was just amazed and in awe of the Tibetan lama Sonam Richen Rimpoche, and his devoted and loyal British translator, Ruth Sonam and I wondered whether they were...married (!) – Sonam & Sonam... OK, this was in 1998… Since then I understand a bit more. And I feel so fortunate to have the opportunity, since late 2005, to study Buddhist philosophy and also to be here in Dharamsala, and receive so much from these incredible people. Sonam Rinchen Rimpoche and Ruth Sonam have been conducting these classes since 1978! And have seen hundreds of committed students… whose life has certainly been influenced and touched by this two people who complement each other exceptionally well.

Preservation of a ancient heritage:
In 1961, the Dalai Lama inaugurated the Tibetan Medical Institute, the Men-Tsee-Khang, with the aim to preserve, practice and promote ancient traditional Tibetan medicine. About 25 students are enrolled in the 6-year programme of its Tibetan Medicine & Astrological College every year to become either medical doctors or astrologers.
The Pharmaceutical Department conducts research and produces the medicine from plants collected by its specialists in the Himalayas. Over 160 types of medicine are available to the doctors to treat their patients, following a holistic approach. Every year, Tibetan doctors treat about 500,000 patients worldwide.
A tiny beautiful and fascinating museum explains the principles and grounds of the Tibetan medical tradition. Cameras are not allowed in, to preserve the precious ancient paintings…