“Long live the Dalai Lama !”
were the enthusiastic screams of the young Tibetans standing around us as the car of the Dalai Lama passed in front of us and His Holiness blessed us with his familiar wide smile and a sign of his hand.
Today was indeed a very special day here in Dharamsala, the Dalai Lama was returning after his long and very important journey abroad during which he was awarded the US Congressional Gold Medal. For the last three days, the excitement was growing and everybody was preparing for his return.
Thousands of coloured Buddhist flags and Tibetan flags were flying everywhere. Artists even painted harmonious multicolored auspicious symbols on the road that leads to the Dalai Lama’s residence.
I would never have imagined that so many people lived in this small town! Thousands of Tibetans, from the very young to the aged, shopkeepers, civil servants, school children, all the nuns and all the monks were in the street, holding a traditional kata and burning sticks of incense to welcome their beloved spiritual leader.
We could feel the atmosphere full of intense joy and happiness and many of us would have very misty eyes!
Once more, I feel so fortunate to being here and receiving the blessings of such an incredible human being. Just a glance from him was enough to touch the depths of our hearts.

Dharamsala’s Himalayas:
On Sunday, we climbed the hills above Dharamsala to the plateau of Triund from where the view of the first peaks of the Himalayas is just breathtaking. Moreover, towards the valley, one has a panoramic view of the plains as far as the eye can see…
It takes about 4 hours of a brisk walking to get to the plateau, 3000 meters high, where sheep graze peacefully on the scarce green grass. And there, in front of you stands the majestic Dhauladhar range, with its highest peak at 4,460 meters.
We started at dawn to get there before noon as there is always the risk of weather changes and the warm and sunny afternoons can quickly change into unwelcome snowstorms.

A historic day, reviving hope for the Tibetan people:

There was much joy and excitement here in Dharamsala this week as President George Bush presented the Dalai Lama the US Congressional Gold Medal. Several festivities were organised around town that included discourses, traditional dances, music, and sporting events. The presentation itself was shown live on a big screen and viewed by thousands of supporters. Everybody here senses the tremendous symbolic significance of the event. After decades of patiently promoting human rights and working for the preservation of Tibetan culture the Dalai Lama is finally being recognised on the world stage. For Tibetans and supporters here there is an expectation that at long last there may be a change in China’s attitude to the exiled Government that could lead to a new wave of dialogue with the Tibetan spiritual leader. Most certainly a new dimension has been added to the plight of all Tibetan refugees here in Dharamsala.

The Namgyal Cafe: the best “Pizza Popeye” in town!
This little cafe is one of our favorites. It has a great atmosphere especially in the evenings, with mesmerizing sunsets as the setting sun slowly loses its glow as it creeps over the distance hills and enveloping the café with an aura of peace and tranquility.
The café is situated on the basement level of the Tsuglagkhang Complex, the monastery of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, which makes it even more special. The pizzas here are simply excellent, and once you discover your favorite, you don’t want to try anything else! If you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss the chocolate-vanilla-rum macaroons!
Behind the counter, stuck on the wall, an amazing patchwork of banknotes from all over the world proudly displayed by the café manager as evidence of his very cosmopolitan clientèle. And near the door, photographs of the Dalai Lama as well of the Buddha. And on prominent display a photo of the well known celebrity, American actor Richard Gere, posing with the smiling Tibetan café manager. Richard Gere is a familiar and regular visitor to McLeod Ganj and has a very close relationship with His Holiness.
We are very fortunate indeed. McLeod Ganj is a great place for eating, and visitors have their choice of simple but very good restaurants to chose from: Indian, Tibetan, Italian, French, Thai, Japanese and even Korean! It is unlikely that one will be able to find such diversity so closely located anywhere else in India, not even in Delhi.

The Earth’s calm abiding
This week, we were again blessed-to be here attending a week-long teaching given by His Holiness the Dalai Lama on Buddhist philosophy and practice*. Hundreds of Tibetans and foreigners gathered in the upper hall of the main temple to listen to His Holiness…and a very strange thing happened - just when His Holiness was giving advice on how to practice… calm abiding (a part of the practice of meditation)…believe it or not, the earth shook for about 2 seconds !!! It seems that our planet is not keen to practice calm abiding!
We all know that Dharamsala is situated in a region prone to earthquakes. We often wonder when the big one will strike. Yet we all have somehow learned to accept this uncertainty.

*Nagarjuna’s “Commentary on The Awakening Mind” and Kamalashila’s “Middling Stages of Meditation”.

Hello there!
Yes, we are back, in this marvellous, peaceful and exceptionally inspiring place…After nearly 48 hours of an exhausting journey that started in Geneva, Switzerland, we were welcomed by a magnificent sunrise. One of the first thing we can’t wait doing is “the Kora”: the 30 min. walk along the little path around the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, turning the Tibetan prayer wheels, dedicating the merits to all sentient beings…The best way to get into a spiritual mood…!

Dear visitors,
It is already mid-June, which means that the Indian monsoon can start at any moment…and believe me…. everything becomes grey and muddy. In fact, it seems that it started last night...! I don’t want to finish like Pinky, Garfield & Co! As I need to renew my visa I use this as an excuse to escape and go back home, to Switzerland, for the summer. But I will come back in September and will continue to feed these pages, with more amusing and useful titbits.
See you then!
OM MANI PADME HUNG…

Little Lhasa of India:
Upper Dharamsala (in fact named MacLeod Ganj) was founded in 1850 by a British lieutenant who was the governor of Punjab. “MacLoo” as locals call it was completely destroyed in 1905 by an earthquake. It lies right on the tectonic plate…
Not much happened in Macleod Ganj until 1960 when the Indian Government accepted the Dalai Lama and other Tibetans as refugees and allowed them to settle in the area. Nowadays, there are more Tibetans than Indians in the town. The Indian authorities have not spent much money on the maintenance of the infrastructures and as a result many of the facilities including the roads and drains have deteriorated over the years. Lately however there has been some improvement in development aid and changes are being seen.
Nevertheless Macleod Ganj is quaint and picturesque with the two or perhaps you can say three streets laid out like a necklace adorned with guesthouses, hotels, restaurants, vegetable stalls and businesses of the Tibetans, Kashmiris and Indians. And yes all the businesses of tour agents and transport operators. Indeed everything that is required to fill the needs of locals and foreigners alike. And difficult as it may be for outsiders to comprehend, there is remarkable efficiency and competency to be found in the town that truly complements the serenity of the local dwellers. In the general confusion of everyday commerce that is commonplace in India, Macleod Ganj is truly unique and a place of refuge for travellers seeking respite from the heat, noise and pollution.

Two exceptional, beloved, spiritual teachers:
The first time I participated in the daily teaching on Tibetan Buddhist philosophy at the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives was in 1998 and I did not understand much…I was just amazed and in awe of the Tibetan lama Sonam Richen Rimpoche, and his devoted and loyal British translator, Ruth Sonam and I wondered whether they were...married (!) – Sonam & Sonam... OK, this was in 1998… Since then I understand a bit more. And I feel so fortunate to have the opportunity, since late 2005, to study Buddhist philosophy and also to be here in Dharamsala, and receive so much from these incredible people. Sonam Rinchen Rimpoche and Ruth Sonam have been conducting these classes since 1978! And have seen hundreds of committed students… whose life has certainly been influenced and touched by this two people who complement each other exceptionally well.

Preservation of a ancient heritage:
In 1961, the Dalai Lama inaugurated the Tibetan Medical Institute, the Men-Tsee-Khang, with the aim to preserve, practice and promote ancient traditional Tibetan medicine. About 25 students are enrolled in the 6-year programme of its Tibetan Medicine & Astrological College every year to become either medical doctors or astrologers.
The Pharmaceutical Department conducts research and produces the medicine from plants collected by its specialists in the Himalayas. Over 160 types of medicine are available to the doctors to treat their patients, following a holistic approach. Every year, Tibetan doctors treat about 500,000 patients worldwide.
A tiny beautiful and fascinating museum explains the principles and grounds of the Tibetan medical tradition. Cameras are not allowed in, to preserve the precious ancient paintings…

No Sundays in construction!

In India, many things are still “hand made”, even…houses. Placid donkeys carry on their backs the bricks, cement, sand etc., from the main road to the construction site. Workmen, including… women, do the rest: dig a big hole – for the foundations - and separate the stones from the earth. Carvers then shape the stones into almost perfect cubes, with hammer and pick…the workers then use the cubes to build the whole house! Then, stonemasons will cover the walls with cement and carpenters construct the windows, one by one. Not sure whether the houses are earthquake proof…It will take about a year of incredible efforts to build a three storey house…unless they forgot the plumbing. Yes, it happens! The workers work seven days a week, 10 hours a day and are paid 100 Rupees (2 Euros) a day… and there is no such thing as Sundays and holidays!...The donkeys are better off! Hmmmmmmm Perhaps in my next life that may be a better way to go..

Long life and success to all beings:
Yesterday, there was a beautiful and inspiring ceremony held in one of the Namgyal Temple’s prayer hall. 1000 butter lamps, 1000 water bowls and 1000 incense sticks were offered to a Tibetan female deity - the “Deity of Victory” - so that she ensures a long life to all beings and help them to overcome all obstacles in their either spiritual or their altruistic and beneficial worldly endeavours. Although these rituals are conducted with much solemnity and dedication monks always chant the prayers with an enthusiastic and joyful rhythm. The atmosphere is open and spontaneous.
Many other rituals conducted by lamas and monks are currently taking places in monasteries in Dharamsala to honour various Buddhist “deities”. These archetypes represent the positive qualities that we all, without exceptions, hold in our hearts and minds, like compassion, wisdom, strength, etc. Remember, they do this nor for themselves, but for us all!
Visitors are always warmly welcome to witness the ceremonies.

A real bargain !
“Only 150 Rupees per tooth…” says Mr Singh, who comes from the neighbouring state of Punjab. He is a kind of itinerant “dentist”, with all his specialist’ tools and materials. He comes to Dharamsala for few days every year; to replace missing teeth…
I was wondering who were the previous owners of all the various shapes of teeth heaped on his little temporary stall erected by the street side. “Are they from dead people?” I asked. “Oh no, Miss, they are carved from stone” he said, proudly. “And how do you fix them?” I asked. Mr Singh’s English wasn’t proficient enough to explain this very technical aspect. But he showed me little pots. “Is it glue?” I said. “Yes, to fix teeth”, he answered. An old Tibetan man passed by, stopped and opened wide his almost toothless mouth for him. Mr Singh took a quick look and said “you need 10 teeth: 1500 Rupees”. The old man looked at him intently and said…”a bit too much for me! Not worth it”. He laughed and left.
Fortunately, I did not need Mr Singh’s services. I still have all my teeth intact and I smiled wide to convince him. But who knows…. maybe one day and for 3 Euros? It may well be a bargain !

A hikers’ dream:
The region around Dharamsala offers beautiful walking tracks and is a hiker’s dream. A pine forest that is coloured in red by rhododendrons at spring and inhabited by monkeys, bears and even leopards (!) surrounds the little town. Many paths lead to small tribal villages where rustic farming tradition is still practised by the farmers. This is the foothill of the Himalayas… and just behind us, dominates the magnificent Dhauladhar ranges.

The most hectic, busy and cosmopolitan little square in the world !

Despite its size, hardly 500 square meters, the little square at the entrance of the village is the center of much commerce activity every day, involving locals and foreigners from many countries, all competing for space with vehicular traffic, with dogs and cattle... The square services a bus and taxi stand and is a transit crossroad and bordering a shopping area, a entertainment zone, a food court, a travel agent’s hub, a financial quarter, a police post to name only a few! Of course, everything is typically Indian; colorful, noisy and confusing yet functioning with marvelous efficiency much to the surprise of most visitors.

« We have a very happy feeling… »

«This teaching by His Holiness was very, very beneficial says Rigzang and Nohzom, two Tibetan students who were part of the audience. «His Holiness is truly a compassionate being, understanding our preoccupations and concerns. He shows us how to apply Buddhist thoughts and teachings in our daily lives - how to live in peace. We have a very joyous feeling after this teaching».
It is the first time that the Dalai Lama has given such teachings to Tibetan teenage students from the Tibetan Children’s Village. Today was the last of his 3-days talk, in which he elaborated on various aspects of the Four Noble Truths and the central Buddhist notion of Emptiness.
«The correct understanding of Emptiness naturally leads us to the development of tolerance, compassion, genuine concern for others and the wish to participate in the community in a constructive and altruistic manner »...

At the teaching today, about a hundred young Indian youths from the region joined the already big group of people listening to the teaching outside the auditorium, in front of screens and loudspeakers. Before leaving the compound, His Holiness kindly accepted to have a few pictures taken, of him with the Indian youth. A hectic but joyful moment…and a little nightmare for the security..!

After the teaching, in the auditorium, many young Tibetans paid their respect by prostrating in front of the wall painting of the Potala of Lhasa and the very seat that the Dalai Lama had just left few minutes earlier. Their genuine devotion and respect was truly inspiring.

Dharma must be relevant to contemporary living:

«The practice of dharma⁽¹⁾ should be rooted in understanding, reasoning, analysing and logic instead of in faith and rituals. In that sense, there is a difference between religion and dharma…» This is the message of the Dalai Lama to over two thousand Tibetan teenage-students, this morning, on the first day of his 3-day teaching in the Tibetan Children’s Village, situated in a beautiful pine forest, an hour’s-walk above Dharamsala.
In a profound and inspiring message, the Dalai Lama spoke about the history of Buddhism in Tibet, the uniqueness of Tibetan cultural heritage, the need for the ordained and lay people to study philosophy, the interaction between Buddhism and science and his view that dharma must be relevant to contemporary living.
The Tibetan children's Village runs fifteen schools, with over ten thousand Tibetan students, in different parts of India. It offers a stable and safe environment as well as a complete education curriculum, from primary to college levels, to mainly orphans and new refugees from Tibet.

⁽¹⁾ the Buddhist spiritual path.

An auspicious day for alms giving:

Since yesterday, hundreds of beggars from all over the region have gathered on the little path surrounding the hill of the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Today is the full moon marking the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and the anniversary of his death. Traditionally, it is a very auspicious day for alms giving… Hundreds of Tibetans will walk the 30 min or so tour around the hill, turn prayer wheels, recite the mantra OM MANI PADME HUNG and distribute a few coins to their less fortunate visitors.

At the same time, in the Namgyal Temple, the ritual of confering blessings on the “mani pills” goes on…

Blessings on millions of "mani pills":

Very early this morning, hundreds of Tibetan lamas, monks, nuns and lay people gathered in the Namgyal temple to start a 7-day annual ritual aimed to confer blessings on millions of tiny precious "mani pills". Highly treasured as pills that liberate from sufferings those who come into contact with them, the “mani pills” will be distributed by monks to people all around the year on various occasions. In this ceremony, the practitioners, together, will pray Avalokiteshvara (the Buddha of Compassion) and recite his mantra, OM MANI PADME HUNG (called the mani) millions of times….
If you want to take part in the blessings, you can recite the mantra OM MANI PADME HUNG as many times as you can during the next 7 days…it will pacify your thoughts, and fill your mind with feelings of peace and joy. Try it !
This annual ritual takes place around the full moon of April or May. This is an important Buddhist festival that commemorates the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and death.

The blessings of the Dalai Lama:
For the last 10 days, every morning shortly before 8 am, hundreds of Tibetans and a couple of Westerners like us, as well as a few Indian tourists have the privilege to greet His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Holding the right hand of His Holiness the Karmapa and the left hand of His Eminence Sakya Trinzin, like a father with his two sons, surrounded by a dozen of Tibetan Lamas, the Dalai Lama walks from the gate of his residence to the Namgyal Temple. The love and compassion of this incredibly great being irradiates the whole compound and fills the heart of all of us with infinite joy…This morning, His Holiness as he did his walk stopped a couple of seconds to greet and comfort a very old Tibetan woman causing some anxious moments for his security guards…

For security reasons, cameras and phones are not allowed on the compound. But we show you a picture of the Namgyal Temple, the very place where every morning since the 19th May, His Holiness gives a commentary on the Guhyasamaja Tantra to hundreds of Tibetan monks, nuns, lay people and a couple of Westerners...Today is the last day.